Does solder matter?

[Seadweller]

In the next couple of weeks, the assembly of my 604 project will begin, and I'm curious if there is a particular solder that should be used to attach the crossover wiring to the binding posts?

Thanks!

[joyspring]

Standard rosin core solder 40/60 (40% tin, 60% lead) will suffice.

Precious metal solders are entirely frivolous, IMHO.

Definitely avoid acid core solder as this is not intended for electronics work.

Best yet, use standard tin-plated crimp connectors (appropriate for the size of the wire / leads), either push-on or Cinch type terminal strips and a good crimp tool. Yields excellent reliable gas-tight connections, which is why aerospace uses crimp connectors in addition to wire-wrap almost exclusively.

BobR

[joyspring]

Ooops, you meant to tin the wire leads for use on the spring-loaded or screw-type terminal posts?

Again, standard rosin core 40/60 will be fine. Yes, they're dissimilar metals prone to oxidation anyways and particularly with spring-loaded connectors, you're depending on spring tension to maintain proper contact between lead and post.

Hope this helps,

BobR

[Seadweller]

Thanks BobR.......I neglected to consider tinning the wires for the spring connectors on the driver, so I'm glad I inquired!!

In addition to the driver wires, I need to connect the wires to the binding posts, and it seems my initial thoughts have been confirmed....Standard solder used for electronics manufacture will be fine....I guess the solder made from moon rocks isn't necessary!

[waitinonthebus]

Alright, here's a question; tin ends or don't tin? I have been ops mgr and project mgr in the AV field so not specifically a tech but through the years I made a concerted effort to learn all I could from some great techs. One of my mentors was a broadcast engineer for 30 some years and whilst contrary to what had been formally taught to most of the techs I worked with he did not tin ends. He maintained that while tinning meant a cleaner connection with less frayed wires it did not provide a connection that was as secure as leaving the ends bare.

Opinions?

[zelgall]

And from my experience in the aircraft field, soldered joints are not acceptable. We did do testing on crimped joints that were done with either pneumatic or hydraulic crimpers. These joints were basically multi-strand wire squeezed into solid metal without voids or cold joints. It requires a slightly higher level of skill to properly crimp joints but from our tests the quality is similar or better. I always thought that my solder joints should look like these when cut open.

[cclark65]

I think for spring loaded terminals with stranded wire, no solder is better. If you solder them, you have a very tiny area that the spring clip will actually touch. If you don't solder, the wires will spread out and contact many different areas on the spring clip.

My own personal opinion, backed only by my own personal logic!
If you agree, sweet. If not, please try to convince me otherwise.

[Todd W. White]

When I was an Altec Lansing Engineering Sound Contractor, I had acoustical consultants who specified mechanically-actuated crimp connections, some who wanted solder only (not many), and some who advocated both.

My dad, who was an automotive engineer and mechanic, always said that, in places where the wires would be moving, solder was not a good idea.

In audio, I think it varies -

1. In places where you want to connect, say, a huge wiring harness to a terminal block, or terminate equipment in a stationary cabinet, I always used spade lugs and crimped them (even though crimp connectors do and have been known to come loose). Often, I tinned the end before inserting it into the spade lug, but realized in later years I was wasting my time, as I had a high-quality crimper.

2. In certain areas of electronic work, you want solder, because, properly done, it permeates the wire and makes the best bond possible.

3. Some applications need the flex, but can flex too much, causing the wires to break at the flex point. Strain reliefs would be appropriate in such cases. This can be true for either crimped or soldered wires.

In short, I think it varies, depending on application - if it's going to wiggle, it WILL eventually break, so it might not make all that much difference. Though I don't think you get all that much better contact by not tinning the ends of a stranded set of wires before you shove them through the hole of a push-type spring-loaded speaker terminal: the terminal is going to touch almost - if not exactly - the same amount of surface area either way, whether it be to solder or bare strands of wire.

In the long run, any system that uses high-quality wire (NO, I do NOT mean Monster Cable, et al) with the proper gauge and number of strands (if applicable), and is correctly terminated will work very well for many, many years.

Of course, unless we want to THINK ourselves into believing that the "Super Colossal" wire and solder we paid big $$$$ for works better.....then, of course, it always will

Just my 2-cents worth....

[StuWelwood]

Todd,

I've gone back and forth myself on the issue of soldered vs. crimped, tinned or not, also. A bit OT, but maybe you (or someone else) can answer a question that I've wondered about for years. As you are probably aware, the electrical code forbids the use of solder in power wiring, but why? I assume it has something to do with increased risk of fire, but I really have no idea.

When it comes to speaker connections, Altec used to recommend "Class 2" wiring, whatever that means. I usually go with very lightly tinning the ends before adding a crimp connector. Sometimes I've even crimped them and then soldered the wires to the crimp connectors. They look good, but again I don't know the relative pros and cons.

Stuart

[Davidg]

Todd, your dad was absolutely right, any movement at all will cause the wire to break at the point where the wicked in solder ends and the flexible wire begins. The only time solder is really needed is if you need a very solid mechanical connection without the use of a crimp connection or where loose strands need to be kept tidy and under control and in those cases the harness has to be anchored to ensure absolutely no movement at the solder joint